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€ 23,98 – € 349,32 HTVA
FEINGOSIL 105 is a two-component, condensation-curing silicone rubber.
Its high precision and elasticity make it the silicone of choice for molds with large undercuts.
This silicone allows the casting of base materials such as gypsum-based products, waxes or reconstituted stone, but is also suitable for polyester, epoxy or polyurethane resin replicas.
Mixing ratio: 5% (e.g. 100gr silicone + 5gr Catalyst E)
Appearance: viscous liquid
Hardness (Shore A): 05
Pot life at 23°C: 10′ Catalyst Fast / 90′ Catalyst Slow
Demolding: 2 – 24h Catalyst Fast / minimum 24h Catalyst Slow
Viscosity (mPa.s): 25000
Density (g/cm³): 1.12
Color uncatalyzed: white
Elongation (%): 700
Linear shrinkage (%): < 0.7
Shelf-life: 12 months in original packaging between 5°C and 25°C.
Packaging: sold by kit (A+B): 1kg + 50 gr/ 5 kg + 250 gr/ 20 kg+1kg
is added to the mixture (A+B) to adjust its texture. A layer of silicone can then be applied without running off the surface of the mold. Mixing ratio: Add 1 to 3% thixo to the A+B silicone mix.
B. Catalyst slow blue 90
The catalyst triggers the chemical reaction that hardens the silicone, transforming the liquid silicone into a solid, flexible material. The “slow-setting” catalyst offers a longer, more comfortable working time.
C. 10′ Catalyst fast red
The “fast-setting” catalyst accelerates the curing time of the silicone, so working time is very short, but demolding can take place a few hours later.
D. Pigment
When using silicone polycondensation, we recommend working with a release agent. Various methods of protection are available.
Liquid or paste wax release agents
Liquid soap, black soap or dish soap
Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA)
Vaseline grease, liquid or cream vaseline
1. Surface preparation
If the surface of the model to be reproduced is porous (wood/plaster/ceramic/etc), it is advisable to apply a coat of varnish and/ or a release agent to prevent the silicone from seeping into the pores and adhering to the object.
2. Formwork
Make a mould around the object to be reproduced, leaving enough space to contain the silicone (wall thickness between 4 and 10 mm).
Carefully check that the formwork is watertight, to avoid disaster.
Make sure the object is firmly attached to the base to prevent it from shifting or floating during filling.
3. Ratio & mixing
In a clean, dry container, weigh out the quantity of silicone required and calculate an addition of 5% catalyst (e.g.: 100gr silicone + 5gr catalyst).
Using a spatula, mix the two components until a HOMOGENEOUS colored paste is obtained.
With mechanical assistance, keep the speed low (300 to 500 rpm) for 2 to 3 minutes and keep the mixer head in the silicone to limit the incorporation of air bubbles.
4. Pouring silicone
Aim for the lowest point and pour the silicone in a thin vein.
The first coat can be applied directly with a brush, then the rest of the mold can be filled.
5. Hardening
Allow the silicone to harden at room temperature.
You can unmold the next day.
Make sure you DO NOT MOVE the formwork during this phase, to avoid distortion.
For Epoxy/PE/PU resin prints, it’s best to let the mold dry for 2 days, to ensure full chemical and mechanical resistance.
6. Cleaning
Don’t try to clean the liquid silicone, as you’ll remove it from the instruments when it dries.
Wear protective gloves.
Skin contact: wash thoroughly with soap and water. Remove and wash contaminated clothing. Consult a doctor if you develop a rash.
Eye contact: rinse eyes thoroughly with running water. Consult a doctor if irritation persists.
Ingestion: do not induce vomiting unless told to do so by a doctor. Seek medical advice.
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